Candy Motors

Art

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Sharing my 105++ ISP plain candy motor formula, as made in Florida.

From Grocery Store:
Scale: $8
Karo syrup (corn syrup) $3
Sugar (common granulated) $2

from the Hardware store:
bottle of "stump remover" (KNO3) $6
4' section of 3/4" PEX tubing (a type of nylon water pipe).

Stolen from the kitchen:
wooden spoon
teflon skillet.
Heavy aluminum foil


Do not do this inside the house unless you have a cool-touch type ceramic smooth top stove and a gaylord extinguisher hood like I HAVE. Otherwise, do it over an electric hot plate out-of doors and away from EVERYTHING. This is a comparatively very safe method of making this stuff, but at the end stage, you are dealing with oxidized propellant...DANGER. Wear layered cotton clothing when doing this, and wear NO PLASTIC. This means no polyester. You don't have to worry about heavy splatter etc... with this method, but be safe just for appearances sake if nothing else.



Instructions:

1. Practice making gravy....Have some with your bisquits you picked up at the grocery with your rocket fuel ingredients. If you can't make good gravy, don't try this.

2. Make coffee. It's great after gravy and bisquits, and you won't have the attention to spare to make it after this.

3. Cut the tubing (either pex, PVC, home-made cardboard motor casing or whatever) into sections 2-5 inches long. I use a table saw, but whatever floats your boat.

4. Set up the scale and zero it out with a container on it. As you measure during the following steps, bounce your cheap plastic scale a bit to make sure it is working right.

5. Add stump remover until you hit the 100 gram mark.

6. Add granulated sugar until you hit the 150 gram mark.

7. Add Karo syrup right on top of until you hit the 170 gram mark.

8. Add about 100-300 ML of water. I like using more water than most folks use. I just get better results I think. I tend to use 300 ML for a batrch this size.

9. Plop all this mess into your teflon skillet. Turn on the stove or hotplate to high. Start stirring with your wooden spoon or a nice gravy whisk until all the dry ingredients are completely dissolved.

10. Once the mixture starts to boil, continue stirring and scraping the edges of the pan with the wooden spoon. As it starts to thicken, reduce the heat to a minimum.

11. The material will start thickening into a putty. When it has stopped steaming at all, wait a bit (still kicking the lumpy mass about with the spoon to dry it as much as possible) and then pull out a small bit. Plop it on a dry countertop and roll it into a small "snake". Cool it down (do not get it wet) as quickly as you can. If you can get the thin cooled snake of propellant to break when you bend it, then you have gotten enough water out. Otherwise, pop your sample back into the pan and keep on cookin'.

12. With a successful test, pull the whole hot mess out (and take the skillet off the heat) and plop it onto a thick piece of aluminum foil. At this point, we need to temper the candy much as you would do taffy. That means kneading it. To do this, flatten the candy with your hand, or if it is too hot and you are too wimpy, use a small plate. Bend the candy in half, and smash it again. Do this a few times, kneading it until you knotice a change in it's elasticity, or it gets too cool. Then pop it back in the pan and return the pan to the low heat.

13. Get out your motor casings or grain molds or whatever you have chosen to pack this stuff into (pvc, PEX, cardboard,what have you).

14. Take your candy off the stove. There are many ways to go about the next step:
a. If you have a drill press, pack the candy into your casings, using a round impliment, such as a dowel, the end of a drill bit, or a bolt to pack the hot candy tightly into the motor.
b. Otherwise, insert a 1/4" dowel, round screwdriver, or something-another into the middle of the casing, and pack the hot candy down around it so that when you pull the dowel out, you leave a nice round hole in the center of the propellant.


Of course, the methods of building a rocket motor or rocket can vary greatly at this point. A quick way of getting a PEX or PVC motor to fire at this point may be done with this method:

Paint/glob some 5 minute epoxy around the exposed propellant on the nozzle end of the motor. This creates a bit of a nozzle. Glob more on the other end. Stand the motor upside down onto a piece of foil. This glues the foil to that end. laternate layers of epoxy and foil (three layers is enough for a 3/4" motor).

After the epoxy cures, trim off the excess foil and glue. Tape this motor onto a bamboo grilling skewer or another likely looking stick. I also make some drag fins out of tape for the end of the skewer, as it is a bit short for such a large motor.
You can make a fuse by rubbing a piece of cotton yarn with a dry mixture of KNO3 and powdered sugar (2:1). You can also use a sparkler (easily available at a grocery store at this time of year in most states.) You can also make electrical igniters following simple instructions available all over the net. Jus tmake sure your fuse or ignitor can easily exit the nozzle of your motor when it ignites.
 

Art

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Just did a rocket motor test of a 76mm X 225mm grain of Sucrose/KNO3 (sugar and saltpeter) in a field near my house. I have launched some fairly big rockets, and I have done a test with Team Gator of a very large (6"X 45") motor before. I guess the surroundings and expectations of that big motor test made it seem less awe-inspiring. I lit this motor off (whole thing was buried in the ground, pointing down). Five seconds never seemed so long...that thing was VIOLENT! The cloud of smoke wasn't so bad, but the freaking roar scared the **** out of me. [}:)][(#)]

Purpose of this test was to try out some tweaks for the fragile nature of candy propellant. I found out some real interesting stuff:

1. I used KNO3 polysulfide mix to bond the grain to the case. This method was used to help prevent the grain (that is the lump of fuel) cracking.

2. The center of the grain was cast in a pattern reminiscent of reverse rifling. Narrow spiral wedges prodrude into the tapered port in the center of the grain. The idea was to provide better surface ignition inside the motor to get full power quickly.

3. I heated the whole grain to about 150 degrees F before loading and firing. This was to promote more elasticity of the grain to prevent cracking.


I had absolutely no test data on this firing. I presume that since it was being fired upside-down, I would not get valid data anyway. What I DID get was the cleanest burn of a sugar rocket I have ever seen. No chuffing, and a very very snappy ramping up of thrust and a very clean cut-off. I know I hit the timer a little off, but the whole motor (1300g) burned in just 4.5-5 seconds.
 

reverend

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sounds awesome

what were the chamber dimensions, the grain dimensions (outside, inside, length) and what size was your throat? I'd like to run it thru my spreadsheet see how your report compares.

thx
 

Art

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The grain was a fairly round :p grain 3" in diameter by about 11" long. I cast it inside a FRP tube that was mandreled on the outside of a piece of heated aluminum tubing. After 15 minutes of curing, I took it out of the autoclave , quenched the aluminum to shrink it, and sprayed water between the aluminum and the glass to release the PVA mold release agent. After that, I stupidly layed the tube on it's side to wipe some polyester resin drips out of the autoclave. This resulted in less than a perfectly cylindrical shape, thus a static test instead of a launch...:)

The grain was ported with a tapered wooden die. The die is 1/8" thick at it's tip, and 1/2" thick at it's base. It is 15" long but the taper is all in the top 10". The die has spiral groves cut into it with a reefing hook about 1/16" deep that come within 2" of the tip.

Mass of the Rcandy used in the casting was 1280 g The tube was coated in my bonding mix, and the candy inserted hot. Excess was minimal.

The plug for the test were made of bentonite. This was dry-packed bentonite (cat-litter) for the forward bulkhead in the grain case itself. The motor case for the test is 3" drill casing (actually has a ~3 1/4" ID) The forward bulkhead of the case is a bolted flange, and the nozzle is held in a flange as well. The nozzle is also packed cat-litter (no, I...um only RARELY launch cat litter skyward). The nozzle was made by packing cat litter into the 2" long section of 1 1/2" pipe welded into the flange. I use the head of a large ball-peen as a drift (I hit it with a second mallet). This forms a nice-looking though not perfectly shaped bell. I then drilled a hole with a 3/8" masonry drill bit through the center of the bell.

The purpose of the test was to see if the hot candy bonded with an elastomer would burn more cleanly than cool (and possibly cracked) multiple grains.

Ignitor was an unassisted 32 ga copper element wrapped about 2" down a piece of AWG22 wire. The ignitor was fully inserted into the grain. As the motor was fired upside-down, the wires doubtlessly interfered, but were probably very short-lived in that environment. Ablated nozzle size at the end of the firing was rather large at 5/8"
 
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madmanmike

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I was just wanting to share my Rcandy recipe that I think is gonna be great have not tested in a motor case only a couple small fingernail size fragments and it burns quite quickly.......I use 60 gr of potassium nitrate ground to a powder...30 gr..granulated sugar ground to a powder 12 gr of Karo syrup a measured teaspoon of rust and 10 mil water ...I heat the syrup in pan till bubbling add the dry mix that was mixed together after grinding never grind them together and clean grinder after every use because they don't need to be cooked to work it will be rocket fule as soon as you mix together...but I add dry mix to syrup and water and stir regularly to develop and slowly boil off the water i dont look at a thermometer i know that its not getting over 320°..the heat is on just over half way...it take somewhere between 7/10 minuts just before the water is gone I add the rust so it will incorporate well and it turns into a plastic looking mass that kinda glides in the pan not sticking I takevout and immediately filled a motor case I made using paper strips and wood glue 2 ..2 foot straips wrapped around a piece of pvc schedule 40 1 inch then I wrap braided string around the entire area tight but neatly then pl premium construction adhesive around entire area and 2 more 2 ft strips of paper using the pl adhesive on entire paper and role till hard once dry it is 3/16 thick and as hard as any esties paper case i poured 100 gr into it ..only epoxy wood dowle in end and filled with more epoxy the tube is 41/4 long and fule came top 1/2in below...added washer with 7 mm hole and an aluminum threaded retainer that screwed into the hard paper .....the core was slightly bigger ...10 mil...have not tested engine but the small fingernail size pieces That was left over when I lit and if I can send a video I will send it I was shocked at how quickly it burned and how violently it burned compared to the other ones that I made this is the batch I'm gonna use for everything it's almost as Fast as black powder i live in nor cali summer hear is dry so I have to be very carefull
The grain was a fairly round :p grain 3" in diameter by about 11" long. I cast it inside a FRP tube that was mandreled on the outside of a piece of heated aluminum tubing. After 15 minutes of curing, I took it out of the autoclave , quenched the aluminum to shrink it, and sprayed water between the aluminum and the glass to release the PVA mold release agent. After that, I stupidly layed the tube on it's side to wipe some polyester resin drips out of the autoclave. This resulted in less than a perfectly cylindrical shape, thus a static test instead of a launch...:)

The grain was ported with a tapered wooden die. The die is 1/8" thick at it's tip, and 1/2" thick at it's base. It is 15" long but the taper is all in the top 10". The die has spiral groves cut into it with a reefing hook about 1/16" deep that come within 2" of the tip.

Mass of the Rcandy used in the casting was 1280 g The tube was coated in my bonding mix, and the candy inserted hot. Excess was minimal.

The plug for the test were made of bentonite. This was dry-packed bentonite (cat-litter) for the forward bulkhead in the grain case itself. The motor case for the test is 3" drill casing (actually has a ~3 1/4" ID) The forward bulkhead of the case is a bolted flange, and the nozzle is held in a flange as well. The nozzle is also packed cat-litter (no, I...um only RARELY launch cat litter skyward). The nozzle was made by packing cat litter into the 2" long section of 1 1/2" pipe welded into the flange. I use the head of a large ball-peen as a drift (I hit it with a second mallet). This forms a nice-looking though not perfectly shaped bell. I then drilled a hole with a 3/8" masonry drill bit through the center of the bell.

The purpose of the test was to see if the hot candy bonded with an elastomer would burn more cleanly than cool (and possibly cracked) multiple grains.

Ignitor was an unassisted 32 ga copper element wrapped about 2" down a piece of AWG22 wire. The ignitor was fully inserted into the grain. As the motor was fired upside-down, the wires doubtlessly interfered, but were probably very short-lived in that environment. Ablated nozzle size at the end of the firing was rather large at 5/8"
 

madmanmike

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Well tested the motor i made with 100 gr r candy...im still alive it started up with my homage igniters and had the nozzle (washer)been attached better i belive it would have put out a good amount of thrust...I ll try to attach video
 
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